Tire Check: Repair or Replace?

Answer what you can about the tire. You will see what those signs usually mean, based on our tire guides. Nothing is saved or sent anywhere. This is general guidance, not an inspection.

What each answer means

All of the guidance this tool uses, from our tire guides.

Signs point to replacing this tire

One or more of your answers is a sign that usually means the tire should be replaced rather than repaired. An inspection at the shop confirms it.

This may be repairable

Your answers match the signs of a repairable puncture. Whether it can be repaired is decided by inspecting the inside of the tire.

Have the tire inspected

Your answers do not point clearly one way. Bring it in during shop hours so it can be looked at in person.

Damage in the sidewall or shoulder

The sidewall flexes constantly as the tire rolls, and a repair there is generally not considered reliable. This usually means replacing the tire. Read the guide

A hole larger than about 1/4 inch

About 1/4 inch (6 mm) is a commonly cited industry guideline for the largest puncture that should be repaired. Larger damage usually means replacing the tire. Read the guide

Driven on while flat

Rolling on a tire with little or no air can crush and overheat the sidewall from the inside, sometimes with little visible damage outside. A tire driven flat usually needs replacing. Read the guide

Driven a short distance flat

The less a tire is driven flat, the better its chance of being repairable. Only an inspection of the inside of the tire can tell for sure. Read the guide

A bulge or bubble

A bulge points to damage in the layers of the tire and is a reason to stop using it. Read the guide

Tread at or below 2/32 inch

If you can see all of Lincoln's head, the tread is at or below the common 2/32 inch wear limit. Grooves that shallow do not clear water well; it is time to replace the tire. Read the guide

A small puncture in the center tread

A small puncture in the center of the tread, on a tire that was not driven far flat and still has tread left, is generally a good candidate for repair. A proper repair means taking the tire off the wheel, inspecting the inside, filling the puncture and sealing the inner liner, then rebalancing. A plug from the outside alone is generally not considered a complete repair. Read the guide

Tire about ten years old or more

Many vehicle and tire makers advise having tires inspected as they age and replaced after about ten years regardless of tread, a commonly cited guideline. Look for cracking, hardening and sidewall checking too. Read the guide

Tire age

Your DOT date code shows a tire under about ten years old. Age still matters: have it inspected if you see cracking, hardening or sidewall checking. Read the guide

Wear on both edges

Wear on both outer edges generally points to low pressure. Set the tires to the pressure on your driver-door placard; air fills are available at the shop. Read the guide

Wear down the center

Center wear generally points to over-inflation, often from filling to the maximum number on the sidewall instead of the placard pressure. Read the guide

Wear on one edge, or feathering

This generally points to an alignment or suspension issue. FlatFixVault does not do alignments: have the alignment checked at an alignment shop before new tires go on. Read the guide

Cupped or scalloped wear

Cupping generally points to worn suspension parts or a wheel that is out of balance. Balancing is done at the shop; worn suspension parts go to a shop that does that work. Read the guide

Not sure what you are looking at

That is normal. Bring the tire in during shop hours, or call with a description of where the damage is and how far the car was driven. Read the guide

Tire check: repair or replace?

Your answers